San Evaristo

I arrived in San Evaristo Bay about 11 am on March 7. There were only about 7 boats in the bay when I got there. San Evaristo is a beautiful little bay! According to one of the cruising guides there are about 20 families living there and fishing is their livelihood . They have a small store, restaurant, school and a desalination plant. It’s a popular spot for boats to stop at thanks to it’s good protection from all winds except out of the east. The store (tienda) has fresh fruits, vegetables and other staples available and cruisers without watermakers can refill their water supply here. Lupe is the owner of the restaurant, speaks pretty good English and is very helpful in any way he can.

I’ve covered the windy night I had in my Back In La Paz post. One thing I didn’t mention was just before dark that night the 110′ behemoth below and it’s two drones came into the bay. They didn’t anchor the entire night, just kept the engine running and someone on watch to keep her heading into the wind. The next morning the winds died off considerably between 5 and 7 am but soon started back with a howling vengeance. From 8 to noon it hit 40+ knots 3 times and then dropped off to 20 knots until dark. IMG_0592

I had slept a couple of hours when the wind laid down during early morning but woke back up when it started to sing through my rigging again. I was down below and saw it ramp up to 37 knots and went up top to check on things and I see a dinghy with a man coming around from the tip of the northernmost point. I couldn’t believe anyone would be out in a dinghy in these conditions. He wasn’t making much headway and I’m not sure but I think his motor died. The wind pinned him against the rocks while the waves were pounding him and try as he may he couldn’t break free. The Death Star sent one of its drones out and they towed this brave but foolish soul back to the safety of his boat. I didn’t think to get the camera out until they came flying by with him and his wet and humbled self in tow.IMG_0593

It was one crazy night I’m here to tell you! The catamaran was trying to blame me saying I had dragged across his anchor and broke him free. Several people were out in sea kayaks or dinghies talking to others about the experience and one guy that had been anchored further out came by, we introduced ourselves and I told him that they were trying to put the liability on me. He said no that he had watched me through the night and said I had never moved. It’s one of your only visual clues in the dark of what your position looking at the mast light that is required when your at anchor. I was watching other boats as well and was pretty familiar with the boats that held and the ones that broke free. The catamaran had lost all of it’s ground tackle. Anchor and chain were completely gone. They searched the bay with snorkelers and dragging grappling hooks for hours trying to find the missing gear but they never did find it. I stopped at San Evaristo on my way back south about 4 days later and it still hadn’t been found. The reason I know I didn’t drag is that I have an anchor alarm that lets me know if I drift out of a certain zone. I can also record my track, which I did on this night and not only does it show how much the boat swings (almost 180 degrees) it also shows how bad charts are in this area as it shows me on land, which I can assure you I was not. It proves as well that I held solid through the entire wind storm. The tracks not in the arc are when the winds die down and the weight of the anchor chain lays down and pulls the boat towards it.File Mar 22, 9 44 32 PM

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